How do I take care of my precious lithium-ion battery

Now that you know the basics about the little chunk of power that keeps your phone going, here are some bite-sized practical tips to keep it healthy without driving yourself insane.

1. Yes, you can leave your phone plugged in overnight.

It is not the end of the world if you don’t unplug your phone the second that it is charged. That charger is smarter than you give it credit for. Leaving your phone on the charger all night (or all day) is far better for your battery than running it down and charging it up.

2. Charge a little bit whenever you can.

Lithium-ion batteries don’t respond well to being charged all the way up and then run all the way down. They take much better to little bits of charge here and there.

3. Yes, you can leave your laptop plugged in all the time.

Don’t worry about overcharging the AEG power tool batteries in your gadgets, and especially don’t worry about overcharging your laptop. What we just said about phones applies here, too. And on and on top of that, many laptops (most, in fact) are smart enough to cut the battery out of the charging equation entirely once it’s full. The battery just sits there patiently until you need it or until it needs another little shock to top it off.But maybe pop out your laptop battery while it’s on the charger, if you can.

The biggest danger to your laptop battery—and your phone battery and your tablet battery—isn’t overcharging, but heat. And with that in mind, it might be wise to pop out your laptop battery while you’re plugged into the wall, if you can. As Andrew from iFixit explains:

The catch is that if you use the computer without the battery, you run the risk of a shutdown in the case of a power outage or clumsiness with the power adapter. Weigh your priorities.

If you can’t or don’t want to remove your laptop battery, at least make sure you’ve got good airflow. Don’t block cooling vents. Maybe even pick up a fan with a stand.

5. Keep your batteries cool.

Speaking of temperature, make sure you don’t leave your phone in a hot car all day. Or place it on top of your gaming PC. Or use it in a sauna. Try to avoid wireless charging if you can, because the waste-heat those chargers generate will also bake your battery. Also, beware of quick chargers. While your phone and charger are generally smart enough to minimize damage from high-voltage chargers, a lot of power super fast can generate extra heat. And if you have to store a gadget or its battery for a while, do it in a cool dry place.

6. Store batteries with a little bit of charge.

If you’re storing Metabo cordless drill batteries, you give them about a half a charge first. They’ll slowly lose their charge over time, and if it drops into the true-zero danger zone, your battery will automatically trip its safety circuit and kill itself for real before it can become unstable.

7. Maybe go replaceable if you can.

If you’re borderline insane about your battery life, consider opting for gadgets that have removable batteries when you can. For one thing, there’s no faster way to “charge” a gadget than by swapping in a fully charged battery. And if you can’t avoid these bad battery practices, at least you can start fresh by buying a fresh battery.

8. Don’t let your battery rule your life.

If you follow the most basic rules of thumb—don’t go all the way from full to empty if you can avoid it and minimize the exposure to heat as best you can—you’ll be fine. It’s easy to obsess over battery care, to let charging superstitions metastasize into obsessive ritual. But just remember two things:

1. Your gadgets and their batteries are designed to keep you from ruining them. Lithium-ion batteries today are better, smarter, and more resilient than the nickel-metal hydrides of yesteryear.

2. Your batteries are going to die. No amount of obsessive care will save you from having to deal with a less capable battery a few years from now.

Invariably, we’re all destined for the annoying endgame that comes when a battery degrades, and you’re either tethered to a charger, buying a replacement Worx battery, or buying a new gadget altogether. We’ve all been there before, and we’ll be there again. So long as you follow the most basic of guidelines, you can maximize your distance from here to there.


Right Ways to Your Cordless Drill Battery

Cordless drills are a great, portable alternative to the classic power drill that has to be plugged into an outlet. A cordless drill lets you move freely in your work space without having to deal with the hassles of tangled cords. Additionally, cordless drills allow you to work where there is no electrical power or where getting power to the work site is a long, difficult process. Although cordless drills are great inventions, they become useless if their power tool batteries stop functioning correctly. Fortunately, you can repair these batteries and get your cordless drill running again quickly.

Identify the positive and negative posts on the battery with a volt meter, and use a piece of tape to label the posts accordingly.

Open the battery case by removing the screws on the outside of the battery case with a Phillips head screwdriver. Organize the screws and any springs or additional items that fall out of the case in a small container.

Remove the battery cells from inside the case by pulling up on them with your hand. Use gloves when touching the battery cells to avoid harming your skin.

Wrap the metal band that lies beneath the battery cells you removed with electrical tape. Avoid touching this metallic piece with your bare hands because it can get quite hot.

Remove the silver piece of insulation from the case and any plastic wrap that is covering the top and bottom posts on the Dewalt cordless drill battery.

Test the battery cells with a battery tester, and mark those cells that are not working with a piece of tape so you can repair them later.

Choose one of the battery cells that you marked with tape in the previous step to be repaired. Locate the positive and negative ends of the cell, which can be identified by their flat or raised surfaces, respectively.

Touch the black clamp on the 12-volt power source to the negative end of the cell while touching the red clamp to the positive end. Hold the two clamps in contact with the ends of the battery for no more than two seconds, and remove them.

Test the cell again with the battery tester to verify that the cell has been repaired and will take a charge. If the cell still does not take a charge, repeat step 8 for a maximum of 10 times until the Panasonic power tool battery holds a charge. If the cell will not hold a charge after 10 attempts, it will have to be replaced entirely.

How to Replace Ni-Cd Cordless Tool Batteries by Lithium Ion

Screwdrivers, and just any other power tool battery, has been produced for many years. Therefore, in the hands of users, a large amount of old batteries accumulated, as well as a dead weight of a tool sometimes accumulated. There are several ways of solving this problem:

1. Simply repair the battery, i.e. replacement of old elements with new ones.

2. Remaking from the battery to the main power, up to the installation of the power supply in the battery compartment.

3. Replacement of nickel-cadmium and nickel-metal hydride by lithium.

The first option for sure many have already passed, as well as me. It gives a result, although in the case of a branded tool it is often worse than it was originally. The price goes a little cheaper, for labor is easier and significantly.

The second option also has the right to life, especially if the work is at home and reluctant to spend money on replacing batteries.

The third option is the most laborious, but it allows to significantly improve the performance characteristics of the instrument. This is an increase in the capacity of the battery and the lack of a “memory effect”, and sometimes an increase in power. But apart from the laboriousness there is a side effect, lithium batteries work a little worse in the frost. Batteries are of different design, although in general they have much in common, therefore I will tell, and at the same time show the example of one of the representatives of this category, the Bosch PSR 12 VE-2 screwdriver. The screwdriver is quite good, there is a spindle lock, two speeds, therefore it makes sense to remodel.

It so happened that the battery packs were even three, but we will rework one, I’ll leave one for another review 🙂

By the way, the batteries are different, but both for 12 volts, capacity 1.2Ah, respectively 14.4 Wh.

Batteries are disassembled in different ways, but most often the case is twisted with a few screws.

Although I came across variants both on snaps and glued.In any case, you will see something like this inside.

In this case, the assembly of 10 nickel-cadmium Bosch cordless drill batteries, with the usual use of batteries of the same size, but their laying may sometimes differ. In the photo one of the most common options, 9 pieces at the bottom and one in the vertical part.

The first thing is to choose batteries for replacement. The power tool uses batteries designed for a large discharge current.

I briefly made a review of different batteries, at the end of which I brought a sign that could help in this matter, but if you are not sure, just find the documentation for the batteries that you plan to buy.

It should be remembered that often the claimed capacity of the battery is inversely proportional to the maximum current given. Those. the more battery current is calculated, the less capacity it has. The example is certainly rather conditional, but very close to reality.

For example, very capacious Panasonic batteries NCR18650B for power tools are not suitable, since their maximum current is only 6.8 amperes, the screwdriver also consumes 15-40 amperes.

And now what can not be applied: Batteries shown in the photo, as well as all sorts of Ultrafire, MegaFire, as well as any 18650 with a declared capacity of 100500mAh.

In addition, I strongly do not recommend using old batteries from laptop batteries.

Firstly, they are not designed for such a current, and secondly, they are likely to have a wide range of characteristics. And not only in capacity, but also in internal resistance. It’s better to use them somewhere else, for example, in the PowerBank to charge your smartphone.

Alternative, model batteries, for example for boats, squats, cars, etc. It is possible to apply, but I would prefer the usual 18650 or 26650 and the type of the presence of a strong case, as well as a more real replacement in the future. 18650 and 26650 to buy easily, and model can be removed from sale, replacing them with batteries of another form factor.
But among other things, remember that you can not use batteries of different capacities. And in general it is desirable to use accumulators from one batch having bought immediately the necessary quantity (ideally +1 in reserve, if all the same fall across different).

Those. if you have 2 batteries on the shelf for a year and then you buy a pair of new ones and connect them consistently, then this is an extra chance to get problems and balancing here already can not help, not to mention batteries with initially different capacities.

For reworking the battery of this screwdriver, the LGDBHG21865 batteries were selected. Screwdriver is not very powerful, therefore I think that there should not be any problems. Batteries are designed for a long discharge current of 20 amperes, when choosing batteries, you should find the corresponding line in the battery documentation and see what current is indicated there.

Lithium batteries have a noticeably higher capacity with smaller dimensions than cadmium batteries. In the photo on the left, the assembly 10.8V 3Ach (32Wh), to the right is native, 12V 1.2Ah (14.4Wh).

When choosing a number of required battery replacement should be guided by the fact that the conventionally one lithium (LiIon, LiPol) replaces conventional 3 pieces. In a 12 volt battery it costs 10 pieces, because usually they are changed to 3 pieces of lithium.

You can put 4 pieces, but the tool will work with overload and there may be situations when it can suffer. If you have a 18 volt battery, then there are probably 15 ordinary batteries, which change to 5 lithium batteries, but this tool is less common.

Or speaking in plain language,

2-3 NiCd = 1 lithium,

5-6-7 NiCd = 2 lithium,

8-9-10 NiCd = 3 lithium,

11-12-13 NiCd = 4 lithium


Before assembling, it is necessary to check the capacity of the batteries, because even in one batch the Makita power tool batteries may have a scatter, and the worse the manufacturer, the greater the dispersion.

After that, you should fully charge all the batteries to equalize their charge.

Battery connection.

To connect the batteries, several solutions are used:

1. Cassettes

2. Soldering

3. Spot welding.

1. The cassette is very simple and affordable, but is strictly not recommended for high currents, since it has a high contact resistance.

2. Soldering. It has a right to life, I do it myself sometimes, but this method has nuances. At least you have to be able to solder. And be able to solder correctly, and most importantly – quickly. In addition, you must have a suitable soldering iron. The soldering process is as follows: We clean the contact place, cover this place with flux (I use F3), take the tinned wire (better not a very large cross section, 0.75mm is enough), we pick up a lot of solder on the soldering iron tip, touch the wire and press it together with it battery contact. Either we apply the wire to the place of soldering and touch the place between the wire and the battery with a soldering tip with a large drop of solder.

But as I wrote above, the method has nuances, you need a powerful soldering iron with a massive sting. The battery has a large heat capacity and with a slight sting the temperature will drop sharply so that the solder “freezes”, sometimes together with the sting (depends on the soldering iron). You will long try to warm up the place of contact and overheat the battery.

Therefore they take a soldering iron with a large copper tip, preferably well heated, then only the soldering site will be warmed up and after the heat it will simply be distributed and the overall temperature will not be very high. The problems concern the negative output of the battery, with the soldering of the plus one there are usually no difficulties, it is easier, but I also do not strongly overheat it. In any case, if you have no experience of soldering, then I do not recommend this method.

3. The most correct way is spot welding, instantaneously, without overheating. But the welding machine must be properly tuned in order not to make a through hole in the bottom of the battery, so it’s best to contact the professionals. Alternatively, in some online stores a service is offered (rather, lots, with or without petals) for welding contact lugs, this is not very expensive, but much safer than soldering. The photo shows that a rag insulator is laid between the petal and the battery case. This is important, because without it you can overheat the petal and it will melt the insulation of the battery, I think the consequences are clear.

Then it is necessary to output the wires for connection to the protection board and the terminal block. For power wires I use a wire with a cross section of at least 1.5mm, and for less loaded circuits 0.5mm.

Of course you will ask why the wire is 0.5mm if there is no current and you can apply a much thinner wire. The wire of greater cross-section has thicker insulation and provides greater mechanical strength, i.e. it is more difficult to damage. Of course you can use any wire, I just showed the option, which I think is more correct. Ideally, the wires first zaludit on both sides, and loose ends isolate, but this is possible with the second rework of the same battery, when the length of the wires is already known. For the first, I usually take wires with a margin.

If you look closely, there are holes in the upper terminals of the battery on the upper photo, this is also done to increase the reliability of the connection.

The wire is inserted into the hole and sealed, in this case there is less risk of getting a bad contact. In general, solder wires, at the same time it is desirable to additionally isolate the terminals using a heat shrink tube.

As a result, we will get such an assembly. Two wires go from the positive terminal, this is due to the connection feature of the protection board.

The last step in preparing the assembly is rather desirable than mandatory. Since the assembly is “live”, it is necessary to fix the elements relative to each other.

For this I use a shrink tube, although in this case it is more correct – a pipe. It is rather thin, but very solid, its purpose is to squeeze the whole structure.We put on heat shrinkage and with the help of a hair dryer we seat it.

The usual option with a cigarette lighter probably will not work, as it is desirable to do this evenly. In toga, we have a factory battery assembly, in appearance.

We try the battery in the case. In general, of course, usually it’s done first, I somehow forgot this moment, but I think it’s quite logical 🙂
Then follows the stage of installing the assembly in the battery compartment. Trivial at first glance, the operation conceals a small pitfalls.

First, we wash away the dust and dirt from the compartment. I made a mistake and wiped only the bottom part, the rest then scrubbed with a brush and fleece. Because it’s easier to wash with soap and dry it.

Next, gluing the assembly. In the original version, the batteries were simply squeezed by the halves of the case, but in our case this is rarely possible, because assemblies are most often glued. Here as before, there are several options, consider them.

1. Double-sided adhesive tape

2. Hot melt glue

3. Silicone sealant

4. Nail through nails, and on the reverse side bend. 🙂

Since the latter option is more suitable for fans of extreme sports, I’ll paint more “mundane”.

1. Very simple and convenient, but since the contact point is small, it does not hold very well, but in addition you need to use a good scotch tape.

2. The variant is good, I sometimes use it myself (by the way, I use black hot-melt glue). But in this case would not advise. The fact is that hot melt has the property of “swimming” when heated. For this it is enough to forget the screwdriver in the summer on the street and get a battery dangling in the end. I will not say that this will be necessary, but this property has a glue, a fact. In addition, the hot melt adhesive does not stick very well to the massive elements and can simply fall off when loaded.

3. In my opinion the most convenient option. The sealant is not afraid of heating, does not flow with time and has good adhesion to most materials. In addition, it is quite elastic and does not lose its elasticity with time.

I used Ceresite sanitary sealant. In the photo, it may seem that he is hardly smeared, it is not, sealant is quite a lot. By the way, it should be borne in mind that most sealants do not glue to the previous layer of sealant. In addition, you can use a similar mounting adhesive in the same tubes, for example “Moment”, but silicone seems to me more suitable.

In general, we apply a sealant, insert our assembly, press it and leave it to dry.

This board is designed to connect three batteries and has a declared operating current of 20 amperes.

Only now, I noticed that the board has a rather high threshold of over-voltage protection, 4.325 Volts. Maybe I’m wrong, but I think it’s better than 4.25-4.27. It is also indicated that the current of 20 Amps is the maximum long-time, the overcurrent tripping current is 52 Amps.

The plate is very similar to the plates from other boards, so I will highlight some important points.

1. The balancing current, since this board does not know how to do this, here the dash

2. Maximum continuous current, for most applications it is necessary to 20-25 Amperes. On a less powerful tool is enough and 15-20, more powerful will require 25-35 or more.

3. The maximum voltage on the element at which the card disconnects the battery. Depends on the type of batteries used.

4. The minimum voltage on the element at which the board will disconnect the load. 2.5 Volts is quite small, it is better to choose this parameter the same as stated in the data on the battery.

5. The current at which the overload protection is triggered. Do not strive for transcendental values. Although this current is directly related to the maximum worker, there are usually no problems here. Even if the protection has worked, it is usually enough to simply release the screwdriver button and then press again.

6. This item is responsible for the automatic reset of the protection operation.

7. Resistance of power transistors, the smaller, the better.

I’ll tell you more about the protection boards.

To begin with I will answer the question – but can it be without a protection fee? No.

The protection board at least provides shutdown during overload, this is harmful both for the batteries and for the tool.

In addition, the board protects against overcharging and overdischarge. It can be said that the overdischarge can be felt by the drop in power, but this does not apply to all instruments, but in addition one can get into a situation where one element is very “tired” and the voltage on it drops very sharply. In this case, it is easy to obtain a reverse polarity, i.e. the battery is not just completely discharged, and through it will pass the current in reverse polarity. This effect is obtained only when the elements are connected in series and for some reason it is often forgotten.

Lithium batteries are very dangerous and a protection card is mandatory for them!

The boards are basically divided into two types (although in fact there are more of them), with the possibility of balancing and without. I’ll explain what balancing is and why it is needed at all.

First, the option of “passive” balancing.

This option is used on the vast majority of motherboards as the easiest to implement. As the battery reaches the threshold voltage, it begins to load on a resistor, which takes over a portion of the charging current. While this battery “fights”, others can recharge to their maximum.

1. One of the batteries is either charged more than others, or has a slightly smaller capacity.

2. In the case of a simple charge, the voltage on it will be higher than the rest

3. The balancer draws a portion of the charge current, not allowing the voltage to rise above the maximum.

4. As a result, all the Dewalt cordless drill batteries are charged evenly. The more, the better.

The second version of the balance bar, “active”. It has a very different implementation and is not suitable for working with large charge currents. Its task is always to maintain the same tension on the elements. It works by the principle of “pumping” energy from a battery with a high voltage in the battery with a smaller one.

We got a little distracted.

A balancing board usually contains several large SMD resistors, the number of which is a multiple of the number of channels. at 3 channels it is 3 or 6.

On them it is more often written that that of type – 470, 510, 101, etc. On the left board 4 channels, on the right – 3 channels.

There is no balance here, but there are current-measuring shunts in the form of SMD resistors with low resistance. They are usually written R010, R005.

Therefore, the board with the balance bar and without can be distinguished in appearance. By the way, the boards may not have a current-measuring shunt. This does not always mean that the board does not know how to measure current.

Simply, sometimes the controller is able to use as a “shunt” field-effect transistors.

Reanimate Old Battery Cordless Drill

I was in dire need for a battery for powered drill, but my good one was at my local Makerspace and I could not be bothered to drive over there at 0100 in the morning.

I remembered that I had bought one some 15 years ago in a supermarket. After I dug up my basement looking for it, I found it in the store-room with a dead battery.

I will show now what I did to reanimate it, for fun and… fun. 😉

Step 1: Take Apart the Battery

The battery pack was held together with 4 screws. After loosening them, it fell apart into three pieces:

•old batteries (dump)
•top cover with contacts (need new wires to go to the new battery)
•lower case (needs holes for battery wires to go through)

Step 2: New Energy

I decided to use a lipo Makita power tool battery pack as my new power source. My drill originally had a 12V power source, so I needed a 3 cell LiPo pack.

I had an old Macbook battery with a broken cell sitting on my desk for ages, and took the occasion to finally rip it apart to build a new battery out of it.

This is quite easy, but I found no instructable detailing how its done.

Step 3: Build Top Case Connector

Easy step, find a matching battery cable, solder it to the contacts in the top case.

Maybe your drill is old enough that it doesn’t matter, but watch out for polarity anyways!

I want to have the battery connector outside of the plastic case, thats why I left the cables that long.

Step 4: Lower Case

Now I had a problem. I needed to drill holes to get a working Worx power tool batteries for my drill. The battery was empty (after sitting on my desk for month).

Adjustable desk power supply to the rescue!

I put 2x two holes next to each other, broke out and filed of the middle to have two long holes.

Step 5: Assembly

The power tool battery for Metabo fits nicely. The reason why I wanted to put the wiring on the outside is:

1.I need a easy way to access the balancing port for charging and use of a lipo warner (recommended)
2.I want to be able to disconnect the lipo from the contacts

Miele Vacuum Cleaner Maintenance And Care

When to change the exhaust filter
Depending on model, your vacuum cleaner will be fitted as standard with one of the following exhaust filters:
a Air Clean
Replace this filter every time you start a new packet of Miele dustbags. An Air Clean exhaust filter and a dust compartment filter are supplied with every packet of DYSON DC61 battery.
b Active Air Clean SF-AAC 50 (black) c Active HEPA SF-AH 50 (blue)
Change these filter types approx. once a year. Make a note of the date on the filter

Exhaust filter change indicator

Certain models are fitted with an exhaust filter change indicator to show you when to change your Active Air Clean b or Active HEPA c filter.

The indicator lights up after approx. 50 hours of operation, which is equivalent to about a year of average use. The vacuum cleaner can still be used with the exhaust filter indicator lit up. However, the suction power will be reduced as will the effectiveness of the filter if it is not replaced in good time. The filter change indicator light is irrelevant if an Air Clean filter a is fitted, as long as it is replaced every time a new packet of Miele dustbags is started. The indicator light will go out when the reset button is pressed.

Replacing the Air Clean filter

Do not use more than one exhaust filter at a time.
^ Open the dust compartment lid.
^ Press the release catch on the filter grille and open the grille until it clicks.
^ Hold the used Air Clean filter by one of the clean, unsoiled sections.
^ Replace it with a new Air Clean filter. If you wish to replace the Air Clean filter with an Active Air Clean filter or with an Active HEPA filter, see
“Replacing one type of exhaust filter with another”.
^ Close the filter grille.
^ Close the dust compartment lid firmly. It should click into place.

Replacing an Active Air Clean filter or an Active HEPA filter
Do not use more than one exhaust filter at a Dyson DC62 Vacuum battery.
^ Open the dust compartment lid.
^ Raise the filter and remove it.
^ Replace it with a new Active Air
Clean filter or a new Active HEPA filter and press it down into place.
If you wish to use an Air Clean filter, see “Replacing one type of exhaust filter with another”.
^ Close the dust compartment lid firmly. It should click into place.
Resetting the exhaust filter change indicator
If your vacuum cleaner is fitted with an exhaust filter change indicator, this needs to be re-set each time the filter is replaced. To do this the vacuum cleaner must be switched on.
^ Press the reset button.
The exhaust filter change indicator will go out and reset to zero.
The filter change indicator can only be reset by pressing the reset button after the light has come on.
Pressing the button at any other time will have no effect

Replacing one type of exhaust filter with another
Depending on model, your vacuum cleaner will be fitted as standard with one of the following exhaust filters:
a Air Clean
b Active Air Clean SF-AAC 50 (black)
c Active HEPA SF-AH 50 (blue)
Please note
1. If you wish to replace the Air Clean filter a with an Active Air Clean filter b or an Active HEPA filter c, it is essential that you remove the filter grille before fitting the new type of filter.
2. If you wish to replace the Active Air
Clean filter b or the Active HEPA filter c with an Air Clean filter a, then it is essential that you also fit the filter grille *.
* Filter grille – see “Optional accessories”.
Do not use more than one exhaust filter at a Dyson SV03 battery.
The exhaust filter indicator light (with reset button) that is fitted on certain models is designed to come on when the Active Air Clean or Active HEPA filter needs to be changed.
The filter change indicator light is irrelevant if an Air Clean filter is being used, as long as it is replaced every time a new packet of Miele dustbags is started. The indicator light will go out when the reset button is pressed

Reconditioning Drill Battery To Remove Crystallisation

NiMh Panasonic power tool batteries are less prone to the memory effect. In fact many tool manufactures will tell you that their cordless drill is completely free from this effect. This is somewhat true. Memory effect is more common in low drain devices like cordless phones. A cordless drill draws a lot of power, and in bursts.

Modern batteries suffer a lot less from memory effect. Nevertheless batteries in cordless drills still lose their ability to power the tool. It might not be the memory effect but due to the chemical reaction taking place inside the battery every time you charge and discharge it.

Newer Nickel based batteries might be less prone to memory effect but they do suffer from “crystalline formation.”

Crystalline formation refers to the condition when crystals form on the anode and cathode inside the battery, reducing the surface that comes in contact with the electrolyte. This can severely reduce the current flowing between the terminals of the battery and hence its effective power.

Crystalline formation occurs over the normal life of the battery but happens a lot faster when the battery is overcharged or charged repeatedly without allowing it to discharge completely.

Severe crystalline formation can result in the larger and sharper edges of the crystals causing permanent damage to the cell inside, facilitating rapid discharges and irreversible malfunction of the battery.

“A battery that hasn’t been reconditioned in over one month may begin to show effects of crystalline formation. After five months there will be a noticeable degradation in battery performance. After six months there might be permanent and irreversible damage inside your Hitachi cordless drill battery.”

So its good to recondition your Nickel drill battery once in 30-45 days. Reconditioning requires the battery to be completely discharged to a voltage of 1V per cell. This kind of discharge is the most easily performed by following the deep discharge method described above for removing memory effect.

Battery reconditioning devices are available in the market for reasonable prices. If you can find one, a reconditioning charger is a good investment if you use cordless drills and other battery powered tools.

Check your user manual. The charger that came with your drill may already have the reconditioning function in it. Many modern tools come with the guideline that “its okay to leave the battery in the charger when not using it.” This is because the charger takes the Dyson vacuum cleaner battery through the proper reconditioning and maintenance cycle when required.

If none of these methods are possible perform the “deep discharge” like we mentioned under reconditioning of memory effect.

Caution: Do not perform manual deep discharges too often. It also causes stress to a healthy battery.

How to Cut Wood Using Various Power Tools

Ever needed to know which type of saw does what job? Or even how to use it? Tools help make cutting through wood less complicated, quicker and more accurate. Provided they are utilized properly and carefully, they can be of enormous advantage when undertaking a new project with timber. There are a variety of various saws which can be used to cut wood. This quick article is full of tips to help you along the way and is a help guide to some of the types of saws available.

Use a jigsaw. Various blades might be fitted to suit different types of solid wood, such as plywood, chipboard as well as hardboard. Jigsaws are specifically suited to cutting timber. It can create straight or curved cuts.

When generating a cut, position the wood on the bench and make sure the cutting area is clear to make certain you don’t cut through anything you don’t want to.

Cuts are made as the sharp edge rises upwards through the timber. Which means neatest side will be on the underside. Bear this in your mind while placing the particular timber for a Dyson Vacuum battery, specially if chopping solid wood which has a coated or melamine surface.

Jigsaws often have adjustable rates of speed and are available having an airborne dirt and dust removal ability and also variable base dish perspectives.

Use a circular saw. These are used for cutting timber, MDF, block board and ply board. It makes direct line cuts. Like with a jigsaw, the actual cut is done as the cutting blades rise up-wards through the timber, so the neatest side will be on the underneath.

When making a new cut, place the actual timber coated surface upon a bench and make sure the cutting area is clear to make sure you don’t cut through what you don’t mean to.

Circular saws generally feature varying chopping capabilities, adjustable speeds, a variable line of cut indicator, a depth adjuster, a remote lower guard lift lever, a dust removal facility and safety switch. Various attachments as well as blades usually are obtainable.

Circular saw accessories are also available, which may be fitted to the top of your electric drill.

Use a mitre saw. This is used for all types of general-purpose joinery, such as chopping skirting planks, dado rails and architraves. It can make virtually any cut when a specific angle is essential, which includes angled and titled cuts. A mitre saw is a ‘fixed’ saw meaning that it doesn’t need to be moved manually because it slices the actual wood. You must therefore consider extra care to never place your hands in the way when generating the cut.

To use a mitre saw, you should make certain that the timber you would like to cut is actually clamped tightly as even a tiny amount of movement can impact the cut as well as result in a poor joint.

A mitre saw should be used with a saw stand or possibly a work table to support your timber and saw whilst you carry out the work.

Chop saws are the simplest forms of mitre saws. These include a saw that’s suspended above the actual timber on a hinge. To produce a cut you pull the saw straight down towards the timber. How big your blade determines the size of cut you can create.

Sliding mitre saws tend to be more superior. As well as including the same capabilities as a chop saw, they also have a sliding feature in order that the saw can be slid along the rail or perhaps guide. What this means is they are often used to produce a much wider cut than a chop saw will make.

Use a reciprocating saw. Reciprocating saws are often used for demolition work instead of building work. This is because they are most suited to making quick and ‘rough’ cuts. They are not suitable for any sorts of accurate cutting. They’re therefore normally used for jobs such as taking out old window frames or even cutting up tree roots. It makes rough, basic cuts – similar to the kind of cut a chain saw would likely create. Because of its shape, a reciprocating saw can often be used to make cuts in places that other power tools would be not able to accomplish.

A reciprocating saw needs to be held in both of your hands when in use. Proper care has to be taken to keep your saw steady. Placing the end of the tool against the wood may help maintain Milwaukee cordless drill battery in place.

When utilizing a reciprocating saw it is possible to find the blade caught in the timber, so you should take care to plan your cuts carefully and be sure that, wherever possible, your wood you might be cutting can not ‘close up’ around the blade. Lubricating the blade can also help.

Reciprocal saws often have adjustable speed settings. Some are available with a blade change facility that doesn’t require a different tool (while some need an Allen key). Several reciprocal saws feature an orbital blade motion which often can help make cutting faster.
Cordless reciprocal saws are available, which may be a good choice for use in difficult-to-reach areas.

Use a door trimming saw. This is used for trimming the lower edges of doors whilst they’re in position. It makes simple shaping cuts. A door trimming saw ought to be held in both hands and really should be used slowly and Black & Decker cordless drill batteries.

Your saw ought to be used when the door to be cut is shut. You need to push the actual saw gradually into the bottom of the door until the edge meets the door and won’t allow you to push the saw any further forwards. You should then slide the saw very carefully along the fringe of the door with a steady speed, keeping the sole-plate in contact with the floor to guide you. You must stop prior to reaching the edge of the door to ensure you don’t damage the frame. Your cut can then be finished while the door is open.

The only distinction between different types of door trimming saws is the depth of cut and also height of the blade from the ground.